Fashion njengoba Dream. I-Life Cycle of Fashion

I-Epigraph: "Sibone ukuthi isikhathi sichitha konke isikhathi esivuthiwe" (Shakespeare)

Isihloko se-athikili yami siwufashini njengephupho, kodwa uma kunemininingwane eqondile, ngakho-ke kungumjikelezo wokuphila wemfashini kusukela "ekuzalweni" kuya ekufeni. Kodwa ake sivumelane ngokushesha ukuthi iCape izocabangela imfashini njengento yobuciko, ilahle izici zokuphila kwangempela ezikunciphisa: ogrehigiens, izingxabano mayelana nokuphazamiseka kwezambatho, futhi, ukukhononda kwezindlela zokuvuselela zanamuhla kanye "nokuziphatha" ngokungahlaziyi kanye nokungahambi kahle kwempahla yonke, ngoba "imfashini inqatshelwe Uphindwe kabili - lapho eveza nalapho ehamba "(Oscar Wilde).

Okokuqala, ake, ngokufushane, siqonde ukuthi hlobo luni lwe "fashion" nelithi "isitayela". Ngakolunye uhlangothi, kunemiqondo emibili ehlukene, ngakolunye uhlangothi, imfashini ihlale ikhona ngaphakathi kwesitayela, futhi isitayela ngokwayo empeleni idala isitayela ngokwazo. Imfashini - (kusuka kwisiLatus modus - isilinganiso, indlela, ukubusa) yimbuso yesikhathi esifushane yamafomu athile, ahlobene nesidingo somuntu esiphikelelayo sokuhlukahluka kanye nobuhle beqiniso elizungezile. Umsebenzi oyinhloko wefashini, singacabangela ukusesha ukuphelela kwangaphandle okuhambisanayo, ukusabela ekusesheni okungokona okungokomoya. Naphezu kokuthi izinguquko zemfashini zithatha zonke izici zokuba khona komuntu, ikakhulukazi ithonya layo libonakala ezembatho, ngoba kulula ukushintsha. Imfashini ihlala njalo ihamba ngezindlela ezimbili: "high" fashion - haute couture kanye fashion nsuku zonke - prêt-a-porter. Ngiyathanda i-esthete, u-stylist nobuciko bomdwebo, kumuntu oyedwa, ngibheka izingubo eziyingxenye yezinto eziphathekayo nezomphakathi womphakathi - i-transformer yobuhle besimo somuntu. Umuntu akanakuphila ngaphandle kwefashini, ngisho nokulahla noma ukuphika, ngaleyo ndlela eveza isimo sakhe sengqondo ngokuqondene nayo. Umqondo wesitayela ukhulu kakhulu futhi unemibala eminingi. Kuze kube manje, sekufikile ukuchaza isethi ethile yezici zobunikazi, njenganoma yiluphi uhlobo lobuciko, nezici ezihlukahlukene zokuphila komuntu - indlela yokugqoka, indlela yokuphila, isitayela sokuziphatha, isitayela sokucabanga, isitayela somsebenzi, njll, ngenxa yobuqotho obungokomoya. Isitayela, ngokungafani nemfashini, ivela kancane kancane futhi ifa kancane kancane. Anatomy of the Moon Kunezibuko ezimbili ze-polar zendlela yokwakha imfashini. Ngokusho kokuqala, ukuzalwa kwenqubo kuyinkqubo engalawuleki futhi engalindelekile; Ngokusho kwesibili, imfashini isetshenziswe ngokuhlelekile kuwe, okungaxhunyiwe noma okuzuzisa yona. Izamlando-mlando zesimo samanje zithatha izindlela ezingafani ezingu-7 zokutadisha imfashini, engizozivumela yona imibono embalwa: 1. I-culture-imfashini - imfashini iqoqo lamasiko amasiko kanye nendlela eyodwa yokusakazeka kwayo, ngaphansi kwezimo ezithile zomphakathi nezomlando. Ukushintsha kwamamodi kuxhunywe nezinguquko emasikweni, emnothweni, endleleni yokuphila, nezinkinga zomphakathi. Isetshenziswe ubuciko besimanje. 2. Ukulinganisa - kubheka uhlobo oluthile lomsebenzi wobuciko, futhi ukuguqulwa kwamamodi kuchazwa ukuguga kwemigodi nemigomo. Okuthandwayo ikakhulukazi le ncazelo yayineminyaka eyi-18-19, kodwa kusukela ekubukeni komuntu wanamuhla - inkolelo efile, ekugcineni iphelile "i-worldbubub". 3. I-Anthropological - ibheka izimbangela zokuvela nokushintshwa kwemfashini ngesifiso esingenasidingo somuntu wokuvuselela, okwenza njengendlela ekhethekile yokuzondla ngokomzwelo nangokwengqondo evela ngesidingo sokuxazulula ukungqubuzana phakathi kwesifiso somuntu siqu senkululeko kanye nesidingo sokulalela okushiwo umphakathi. Ngokokuqala ngqangi le mbono yavela ngasekupheleni kwekhulu le-19, ngokushesha nje kuphela ukuthi ukucabanga kwengqondo kwavela njengegatsha elikhethekile lemithi kanye nesayensi. 4. I-Psychoanalytic - izinguquko zemfashini ikuvumela ukuba ukhokhele ukungabi nhlonipho nokudala ukuguquka kokuguquka empilweni yomuntu. Ngaphezu kwalokho, imfashini ibonisa izidingo zobulili zomuntu, isebenza njengento ebalulekile kokubili komncintiswano wezenhlalo nezokucansi. UMdali - kahle, uSigmund Freud kanye nengcebo entsha entsha noma imali entsha. ERussia, sonke sikhumbula izigqoko ezibomvu ezinezinkinobho zegolide emigqeni emibili (ngendlela, umbhali walezi zobuciko kwakuyi-Armani) 5. I-Socio-Psychological - ibheka imfashini njengenye yezindlela zokuxhumana, ihlanganisa ukuguquguquka kwengqondo yokuziphatha kwamaqembu ezenhlalo . Ngokwalo mqondo, i-strata ephansi ifuna ukulawula abantu abakhulu emphakathini bese ikopisha imfashini yamakilasi aphezulu. Lezi sampula kancane kancane ziba yimpahla yamaphakathi, bese kuthi ezansi, okungukuthi, ziphenduke zibe imfashini. Izigaba eziphakeme, ukuzama ukuhluka, ukushintsha imfashini futhi, ukwethula izitayela ezintsha. 6. I-Sociological - ibheka imfashini njengombonakaliso wesimo senhlangano yezenhlalakahle ezithonya ukuziphatha komuntu emkhakheni wokusetshenziswa, ukwakha izithombe zezinto - izimpawu zokudumisa, kodwa izinguquko emfashini zihlobene 'nokugqoka nokukhala' kwalezi zimpawu. Kuze kube manje, "i-bible" yale ncazelo yizo zonke izincwadi zika-Oksana Robski, omagazini abanjengo-Elle kanye nenkolelo yokuthi "izinduna zikhetha abathandekayo ilblondines." 7. Ukuphathwa kwezomnotho njengendlela ephumelelayo yokwandisa ukuthengisa kanye nendlela yokukhangisa izimpahla, kwembula ubuhlobo bemfashini nokuthuthukiswa komnotho. Imfashini yakha izidingo zomthengi omkhulu, iphoqa abathengi ukuthi bathenge izinto ngaphandle kwezidingo zabo zangempela. Izindlela zomnotho wezimakethe zibandakanya ukusobala okuhleliwe kwezinto. Noma yikuphi imakethe yamaShayina noma ukuxhuma kwenethiwekhi edolobheni lomhlaba - abasebenza ngokuqhakazile kule mbono. Amakhulu eminyaka e-CycleModern, kuze kube semkhatsini we-19, izinguquko ezembathweni zenzeke kancane kakhulu - imfashini ingahlala kusukela eminyakeni engu-20 kuya ku-100 kuya ku-100! Okusho ukuthi amafomu ayisisekelo kanye nokuklanywa kwezembatho noma zezinwele azizange zishintshwe, kuphela ukuphela, izesekeli kanye nezendwangu ezihlukahlukene. Ochwepheshe banamuhla embonini yefashini kudingeka bakhumbule ukuthi eminyakeni eyi-90-100 yokugcina imfashini ayisunguli noma yini entsha, ibuyisela kabusha imibono emidala, iphoqelela noma ilulahle izinto zokufakelwa, ukwethula izinto ezintsha (ukubopha nokwelula izindwangu, izakhi) noma izindlela zokugcizelela izakhi zomuntu ngamunye (zipper, tape tapcrows -fakiwe). Yingakho namuhla, lapho ulungiselela laba stylists, ukunakekelwa okunjalo kubhalwa emlandweni wezindwangu kanye nekhanda. Umjikelezo wokuphila wemfashini yanamuhla uyifushane, kodwa ngisho nemingcele nemithetho yawo ecacile. Njengesingeniso, ngizocaphuna u-Oscar Wilde ucaphuna: "Imfashini iyinkohliso futhi ihlekisayo ngonyaka ngaphambi kokuba ibonakale, i-vulgar eminyakeni emihlanu, isithandana ngo-10, iyabukeka ngama-20 futhi ihle kakhulu ngo-50". Ngakho-ke, imibono emisha yezimfashini zesikhathi esizayo iqala ukuvela endaweni ethile lapho isitayela esivele sikhona, senza ngokuvumelana nomthetho wokuthi "zonke izindlela ezintsha zishaywa ngokubhekene nesimo esivele siphume" (Eduard Fuchs). Imfashini "entsha" ithola amandla, okungukuthi, kuthatha izinkulumo ezichazwe iminyaka engu-2-3. Kancane kancane, ekuqaleni ngokucophelela, ke ngokuqhubekayo, iqala ukukhipha "okwamanje" futhi emva kweminyaka engu-3-4 ifinyelela ukunqoba kwayo. Isikhathi sokusebenzisa umshini omusha sithatha okungenani izinkathi ezimbili-3, njengoba abantu abaningi bengakwamukeli, kubonakala sengathi abantu abahlekisayo noma abafaneleki uhlobo lokubukeka noma isitayela. Esikhathini esiphakeme, imfashini, njengombuso, cishe iminyaka emihlanu, kodwa, ngalesi sikhathi emanzini awo asele isikhathi sesivele sesivuthwa, umshini wayo omusha. Ngaphakathi kwefashini "ekhona" kunemininingwane ehlukahlukene "yemininingwane yemfashini" (amathekisthi amafashini) okungajwayelekile ukuthi ahlale emathweni ngisho nonyaka, kodwa umugqa ohlala phambili ungaguquki uze uqede ngokuphelele. Kodwa-ke, imidwebo "endala" ayinyamalale empilweni yethu ngesikhathi esisodwa futhi iphelele, ivele ingene ngemuva futhi iqhubeke nezinye izinkathi zonyaka ezingu-2-3, iqhubekela emaqenjini akude kakhulu emazweni amakhulu. Yonke inqubo yokuguqulwa kokugcina kwezingubo "ezifashini" zesigaba "esidala" kuthatha iminyaka eyi-10 ekhaya lanamuhla. "I-Caliphany hour" Ngesikhathi sokubukeka kwayo, okusha kudala njalo kubangela isimo sengqondo esibi, ngoba ngokuvamile sidalwa ngamafomu angavamile, ngokuvamile sidinga ukuguqulwa kwengqondo, ukuphazamiseka kokucabanga. Ngombono wami, ukuhlelwa okusheshayo kwe-monotony kubi kakhulu, ngoba, okokuqala, le nsizwa ifundiswa ukuba iguquguquke futhi isamukele isimo sengqondo esisha, sokubekezelela umuntu ongafani nawe. Ngokuvamile, abesifazane, ikakhulukazi kwabesifazane, emva kweminyaka engama-30, into enhle kunayo yonke into enhle kakhulu, ngoba ukunamathela ngokungathí sina emfashini yisifo sabantu abasha kakhulu. I-Coco Chanel kule ndaba yathi umsebenzi oyinhloko nomsebenzi wowesifazane kuphela "ukuqonda isitayela sakho, okuyiyona inkomba yezingqondo zabesifazane." Ngifuna ukugcizelela ukuthi kungokwesitayela (okungeke ukwazi ukuguqula yonke impilo yakho futhi ufanele), hhayi ngemfashini! Lokhu akusho ukuthi akudingeki ube nemfashini, udinga nje ukuthola ibhalansi enempilo phakathi kwemfashini nesitayela, ngoba imfashini yesimanje ikhona lapho kuvele khona ukufihla okufihlakeleyo - izimpendulo ezibonakalayo. Ngaphezu kwalokho, ngokwesibonelo, izitayela zakudala, njalo unikeza ithuba lokulinda i-Vamodou enhle. Akumangalisi eFrance bathi: "uma ngabe imodemu entsha ayithandi - miss it!