Umpheki waseFrance kanye no-restaurateur uPaul Bocuse: izindlela zokupheka ezingcono, umlando wokuphila nomlando

Omunye wezazi eziyinkimbinkimbi kakhulu zezobuciko zekhulu leminyaka nguPaul Bocuse. Naphezu kokuthi zonke izindlela zakhe zokupheka zilula kakhulu futhi zifinyeleleka ngisho nabantu abangabonakali kakhulu emkhakheni wokupheka, futhi izitsha zihlukile ngokungafani kwezilwane zabo, akungabazeki ukuthi lokhu kungokwakhe ekhishini eliphakeme. Izindlela zokupheka ezinhle zikaPaul Bocuse, i-biography yakhe kanye nomsebenzi wakhe - esihlokweni sethu.

Inzalo

UPaul Bocuse ungumpheki wesizukulwane sesihlanu, uqhubeka nebhizinisi lakhe lokudlela kusukela ezinsukwini zika-grand-grand-ugogo wakhe, owayengeyena omuhle kuphela, kodwa futhi ophekwe kahle kakhulu. Umndeni wawunomshini, yilapho evula khona ukuthungula phakathi nekhulu leshumi nesishiyagalolunye. Izivakashi zazithanda ukuvakashela lesi sikhungo, ukudla okwanikezwa kubaphathi bemikhumbi, abalimi ababeza nokudla kwabo emgodini, izakhamuzi zasemizaneni eyayizungezile zazinomsoco, zilula futhi zingavamile ngendlela engavamile.

I-Tavern eminyakeni engamakhulu ayisishiyagalolunye yaphenduka indawo yokudlela, okungazelelwe ivele emgwaqweni ukusuka eParis kuya eMarseilles. Isakhiwo sabhujiswa. Kodwa ibhizinisi lomndeni selivele liqinile kangangokuthi likwazi ukuqhubeka eMfuleni waseSaon, lapho amakholi ase-Ile-Barba ayehlala khona. Ngakho kwafika ngonyaka ka-1921 - isikhathi sezinguquko zomkhawulo. UPaul Bocuse akazange azalwe ngenkathi umkhulu wakhe enquma ukuthengisa hhayi kuphela isikhungo, kodwa futhi negama.

IThe Legend

Kuthiwa umkhulu ukhuthaze lesi sinyathelo ngomhawu. Ugogo, njengabesifazane bonke bomndeni, ubuhle, izivakashi eziningi zazama ukumnakekela. Ugogo wayengathandi kakhulu. Ayaziwa ngokuqinisekile ukuthi lesi senzakalo senzeke endaweni yokudlela, kodwa isikhungo sathengiswa kanye negama lomndeni. Uma ubukhosi buphazanyiswa, cishe akunakwenzeka ukuthi sasizokwazi ukupheka okunjalo njengoPaul Bocuse.

Kodwa-ke, izimpande ze-culinary zangena kakhulu emiphefumulweni yalo mndeni, ngakho uGeorge - isizukulwane esilandelayo - wakhetha le nsimu efanayo. Wathola isipiliyoni sakhe sokupheka ezindaweni zokudlela ezinhle eLyon futhi wavula eyakhe. Wayazi kakhulu, kodwa indodana yakhe ayifundanga ngesizathu esithile. Wakhetha omunye uthisha omuhle kakhulu wezobuciko - uClaude Mare, obesezimpande kulo msebenzi wayengathandeki kakhulu.

Ukuqeqeshwa

Esitofu kanye nokupheka kwangempela, uMare wavuma umfundi ngaleso sikhathi. Ekuqaleni wathenga ukudla isikhathi eside futhi wahlolisisa ngokucophelela ukusha kwawo. Kamuva kwaba isici esivelele somsebenzi uPaul Bocuse owahola: izitsha zakhe zihlale zilungiswa ezivela ezingxenyeni ezintsha. Impi yaqala, isiqalo sokuqala sokubhalisa njengesivolontiya sasiya phambili. Ngesikhathi impi yase-Alsace yayilimala kakhulu. Walwa kahle, wathola isiphambano ngo-1944 "Ukuze asebenze empini," futhi ngo-1945 wayelindele iParis Victory Parade edumile .

Kwadingeka ngishintshe umsebenzi wami lapho ngifika ekhaya. Uthisha kaPaul wayeyiFernand Point edume kakhulu, kodwa lapha wayepheka izitsha kakhulu kangako kunokuba azinakekele engadini, ahlanze izitsha, ahlanzwe izingubo, azinake futhi aphuze izinkomo. Kodwa-ke, amanye amaphuzu awuthatha kusuka kuPholes. Futhi manje iqoqo legolide lezinto zokupheka uPaul Bocuse lihlukaniswa nokutholakala kwemifino emincane kanye namasoso omzimba.

Buyela

Kuze kube seminyaka engamashumi amathathu nanhlanu uchwepheshe oyinkimbinkimbi wobuciko wayesezuza isipiliyoni. Kodwa-ke, lapho ebuyela esitolo sokudlela sikayise, wakhetha ibhizinisi kahle kangangokuba ngonyaka ozayo isikhungo sathola inkanyezi yaseMelika. Ngo-1965, izinkanyezi zaseMirin zase zivele zintathu. Kwakungukuphakama kwenkazimulo. Futhi izindaba zezimali ziye zathola okuningi kangangokuba uPaul Bocuse wathenga indawo yokudlela yomkhulu kanye negama lomndeni. Manje kukhona ihholo lokudla, lapho abantu baphathwa khona ngezikhathi zokhokho bomndeni: ukudla kulula, kodwa kuyamnandi.

UPaul Bocuse wayejabule ukubuyisela igama lomndeni ebhizinisini, ngoba lingaphezu nje komkhiqizo owaziwayo. Lokhu kuyinhloko yalokho okuthiwa ukuphelela, uhlobo lokuphelela. Ngokwemvelo, indawo yokudlela eyabuyisa igama, futhi ihlotshiswe nezinkanyezi zeM Michelin, yenzelwe abantu abaphumelele kakhulu, abacebile kakhulu futhi abadumile kakhulu ukuthi uPaul Bocuse baqoqwe. Ukubuyekezwa kwezitsha ezivela emikhiqizweni enhle kakhulu futhi ehlanzekile yendawo, okungaphezu kwalokho, engalahlekelwa ukunambitheka kwayo yemvelo ngesikhatsi ukupheka, ube nomhlaba wezwe.

Ikhishi elisha

Ngo-1975, inkosi yanikezwa i-Order ye-Legion of Honor, futhi ukubonga kwakhe kwakukukhulu kangangokuthi kwavela ubuciko obusha bokupheka. UPaul Bocuse, izindlela zokupheka ezilula njengoba ziyizihlakaniphi, zithokozisa izwe ngesobho lama- black truffles, okuthiwa ngumengameli waseFrance.

Ngempela kunzima ukulula! Ukuba ikhadi elivakashele le-cuisine ephakeme likaPaul Bocuse, i-truffles yempuphu iqukethe ama-truffles amnyama amasha, ama-chicken fillets, isilimo esidliwayo esinamagatsha anamanzi neziqathe, izigqoko zama-mushroom ama-champignon, i-vermouth emhlophe ne-foie gras. Futhi ngenxa yesizathu esithile, inkukhu ye-chicken bouillon cubes ... Itholakala ekomishi elibizwa ngokuthi igama elibizwa ngokuthi igama elibizwa ngokuthi yi-brand-refractory cup, eligcwele umhluzi ngaphambi kokuya kuhhavini. Akuyona into e- Elysee Palace uPaul Bocuse eyiphatha umongameli!

Imisebenzi yobuchwepheshe kanye nomphakathi

Okudumile kunenye enye iresiphi, eyakhiwa uBroosh otholile, futhi abalandeli bakhe bayithuthukisa ngazo zonke izindlela. Njengezinye izitsha ezidumile zesiFulentshi , ihluke kakhulu kwi-classical kanye ne-recipe ye-brioche test by Paul Bocuse. Futhi ngonyaka ka-1987, umpheki wanikezwa isikhundla se-officer e-Honorary Legion futhi waphatha omunye umongameli. Ngesikhathi esifanayo, umncintiswano we "Golden Bokyuz" wasungulwa, umvuzo walo mholi manje usho okufanayo "no-Oscar" womculi.

Ukuphila kwenkosi minyaka yonke kwaba yinto eqhubekayo. Wavula izindawo zokudla, wabhala izincwadi, wabamba iqhaza emibonweni nasezinhlelo ze-TV, ngisho ne-Culinary Institute eyadalwa. Ukuhamba kuthatha indawo eqhubekayo. Ngo-2003 wavakashela eMoscow, lapho ebeka khona uphawu uPaul Bocuse. Umuntu angasebenza futhi ajabule.

Ama-predilections

UPaul Bocuse uthanda izitsha zakudala zekhishi, ikakhulukazi ukuthandwa izitsha zensimbi. Ukhetha isitofu segesi, kodwa ukuthi ihhavini elikuyo lingamagesi. Ngokusobala, lokhu kungenxa yokulawulwa okungcono: Ukufudumala nokushisa kulawulwa kuhhavini ye-electro kakhulu ngokunembile. UCredo empilweni yakhe uPaul Bocuse akazange ashintshe. Kusuka ensimini noma olwandle - ngokushesha etafuleni. Konke okuphefumulayo. Azikho izitsha zakhe ezilungiselelwe isikhathi eside noma ngokuzikhandla. Yingakho ukuthanda akuhlanganisi. Izitsha zihanjiswa kuphela ngelamula, amakhambi, uviniga nebhotela. Izithako azifakiwe, kepha zendawo. Imenyu yokudlela yakhe ihlale ifushane kakhulu.

Izincwadi zakhe zihunyushwe ngezilimi eziningi. NgesiRashiya kwafika "izindlela zami ezinhle kakhulu" kanye "neBhayibheli le- French cuisine". UPaul Bocuse uyayilanda ayengeke ayeluleka, uma okungenani aqondwa kancane ngesiRussia. Abahumushi nabahloli bokuhlola baphendule emsebenzini wabo, ukubeka kahle, ngokunganaki. Ezincwadini zakhe, akukhona nje kuphela ukuthi azikho ezithombeni eziningi, okunye noma izithako, kodwa, ngaphezu kwakho konke, izinombolo ezikhomba inani lemikhiqizo zididekile ngokuphelele. UPaul Bocuse akasoze atusa izincwadi zakhe kubachwepheshe baseCroatia abadla ngezinye izikhathi baze bazuze umklomelo wegolide egameni lakhe. Futhi nakakhulu akunakwenzeka ukufunda kulezi zincwadi kubaqalayo. Yeka isihawu!

Zokupheka eziningana, ezihunyushwe kahle

Izitsha ezakhiwe yinkosi zihle futhi zilungiswe ngokushesha, zivame ukuqukatha izithako ezinzima ukuthola. Isobho lempumpu (ngokuqinisekile, abaningi banamakhulukazi abenza ngesiRussia, ngaphandle kwamaqanda anezinkuni), i-klafuti - i-pie elula kakhulu ngamajikijolo, okwenzeka endlini engavamile okwenzekayo etafuleni cishe nsuku zonke ehlobo, ehlanzi noma ezinye izinhlanzi eziphekwe Enhlama noma egosiwe ngopuphu, ingabe lezi zitsha zingaba yizwe langaphandle? Ziyizwe lonke.

Kodwa i-pastry yabizwa yisidlo esinjengesiFulentshi. Ngefomu elikhethekile, elibekwe yi-test, izinhlayiya ezimnandi ze-ham, i-veal, i-lerd kanye ne-ingulube egcwala inyama enobuthi, ihlanjululwe nge-cognac, enikezwe ngamakhambi anombala, ifakwe ngobuciko. Kungaba mnandi hhayi kuphela ukuzama, kodwa futhi ukupheka. Kumele kuqashelwe ukuthi uPaul Bocuse unezivini zakhe siqu eBejojolais odumile. Ngakho-ke, ukulahlwa yecala kanye namacognac ngokuvamile kuvame ukuhamba naye. Futhi izingxenye eziphoqelekile cishe zonke izitsha zakhe ziyi-cream kanye nebhotela. Lokhu kuyisilonda nama-mushroom, futhi i-carp eqoshiwe. Iwayini, ukhilimu, ibhotela.

Amazambane neqanda

Noma kunjalo, eduze kukaPaul Bocuse kanjani gastronomy kuya cuisine Russian! Izitsha eziningi zilungiselelwe kusuka kulazo izithako ezingalokothi zishiye ikhishi lethu. I-omelette namazambane - kwasekuseni kwasekhaya kwasekuseni kunoma yikuphi ukuphumula kweRussia, ngaphambi kokugaya, isibonelo. Okuhlwabusayo, okunempilo, okunomsoco. Kuyini ubuhle beFrance? Amazambane aphuzile enifanini, amaqanda angenawo esiqandisini, kodwa esitokisini noma ngokuqondile esihlahleni senkukhu, amafutha egobe, ancibilike epanini lokuthosa. Nge-cracklings kuyoba ne-omelet.

Abagogo nomama kuphela kuphela abasawoti usawoti amafutha ekhukhu kusuka epanini lokudoba, ukuze bakwazi ukuthosa amazambane kuwo. Futhi uPook Bokyuz uzobuyisela lezi zinhlayiya, uthele konke lokhu ngamaqanda, ahlanjululwa ngamanzi, awusilungele futhi akhonze ngesinkwa esimhlophe, othosiwe ebhotela. Mhlawumbe akuwona wonke amaRashiya adla isinkwa namazambane, kodwa uma kungenjalo lokhu isidlo njengommeli weFrench ephakeme kuzodingeka ukunambitha emadolobheni nasemadolobheni ethu.