Fashion umklami Pol Puare: Biography nesithombe

A brilliant, indoda eyisimanga Pol Puare kufanele wathola isicoco koMbusi laseParis imfashini. Akasiye ncamashi ukuqashelwa yami (okuyinto ithalente omkhulu singathethelelwa) "Inkathi egqoke", abesifazane amahle kakhulu futhi odumile isikhathi. Phakathi amaklayenti akhe - konke yaseYurophu, ehlanganisa i Izicukuthwane Russian, kanye nabantu zokudala. Abantu ayephila nabo babe Koko Shanel, Zhak Duse, Charlz Uort, NP Lamanova nokunye. D.

Pol Puare, biography: Eminyakeni yokuqala

Okulandelayo omkhulu wengqephu owazalelwa e-Paris ku nendwangu yomthengisi umndeni. Mayelana nendlela esengumntwana kwakunzima ukusho, ngoba akukho idatha okuthembekile. Encwadini yakhe ethi oluchaza ngo Poiret ngokuya igxile igqoka, imidwebo kanye nezigqoko, okuyinto vele ngaleso sikhathi wagcwalisa ingqondo yakhe nemicabango. Kusukela esemncane ukuthi kroil futhi bathunga bebodwa odadewabo. Ngisho nangaleso sikhathi, ithalente womfana wahamba ngaphandle zabuzwa ukuqashelwa.

Pol Puare yakhulela odade abathathu, omunye (Nicole Grult) kamuva wasebenza ukudala sigqoka futhi ngisho kwadingeka fashion house ayo e-Paris. Nokho, yesibili udumo wazuza, sekuvele kuyi shlyapnitsy oluvelele. Naphezu sobala lwaya indodana imfashini noma yini ehlangene nakho, ubaba wayengafuni nendaba naso, ngakho waphikelela ngokuthi umfana wafunda engayi esikoleni. Ngemva kokuthweswa iziqu zakhe, wamnika isithunywa umsebenzi kusukela amakhosi adumile ukwenziwa izambulela. Kodwa maduze nje, Pol Puare (bheka isithombe. Ngezansi) ushiye workshop. Ukuthatha ukusikeka kasilika Indwangu, kwaba ukuthunga izingubo lokuqala onodoli, eyanikelwa odade esisodwa.

Ukuqala ngendlela yokudala

umsebenzi wabo esikhathini sangemva kwalokho inkosi enkulu waqala ukusebenza odumile French wengqephu bese ngalendoda Jacques Doucet kwaba studio kaCharles Worth, lapho ikakhulukazi wahlanganyela ukuklanywa evumelanisa zokugqoka yangaphandle (amajazi, capes). Futhi kakade ngo-1903, Pol Puare esungulwe imfashini endlini yakhe. Impumelelo kwaba emangalisa ngempela nombani, ngokuyinhloko ngenxa uxhumano esingilitholile nokuduma phakathi amaklayenti ezihloniphekayo, ukhomba ngophakathi.

Yena iqhutshelwe phambili ukubuya kuya fashion bezikhathi zasendulo, futhi waqamba bagqokise ijazi futhi peplos, futhi okuhlongozwayo waseParis labangela ukuqala komkhakha ezintsha njengoba sasithi namuhla, lo mkhuba - i-kimono.

domesticity

Pol Puare - imfashini uhlamvu ngokomzwelo, nemvelo elikhanyayo futhi addicting. wamane lalingekho ngaphandle muse. Yaba Deniza Bule ashada naye ngo-1909. Njengoba emkhomba master, yena ubeqhakambisa zonke kwezifiso. owesifazane Ebukekayo ezivela kwezinye izifunda emangala izakhamuzi zokubhukuda elikhanyayo, eliyingqayizivele futhi enkulu wadala ikakhulukazi wakhe, wembula ubuhle bakhe. Ngamunye ukushicilelwa lalenziwa umcimbi, a ukuzwa. Umbhangqwana ukuxoxa abezindaba kanye nomphakathi. Ngokuqinisekile isipho ezimpilweni zabo belwela ukuba kusetshenziswa umphakathi, ukufinyelela kwesinye isikhathi kuze kube seqophelweni ehlazweni. Kwakuphakathi nalesi sikhathi esiyiminyaka Pol Puare (bheka ingubo. Umfanekiso) uthola udumo njengoba abaklami ovelele kakhulu zomhlaba, it is kuqhathaniswa nomculi, umdali, futhi izindaba ethululela, njengokungathi kusuka a Cornucopia.

Lo mbhangqwana futhi waduma njengoba abagqugquzeli ezinkulu imvunulo party owenza unyaka ngamunye. iholide ngayine inezidingo zayo yisihloko salo, kodwa ikakhulukazi idume kusihlwa "1002 th Night", aphethwe ngo-1911.

Ngeshwa, akuzona zonke izindaba ezinhle babe ukuqhubeka ezifanele futhi ekupheleni. Umbhangqwana uhlukana ngo-1928, lapho kahle ngokwezimali Poiret aqala ukuncipha. Siyini isizathu kweqiniso ngokuhlukana iphiko ngemva kweminyaka eminingi kangaka, uthi akekho okwaziyo. Nokho, lapho kuxoxwa naye iphephandaba uDenise bammangalela ngokuthi unya futhi Poiret, wetha okuhlaselayo yakhe yokuziphatha.

izisusa Ethnic emisebenzini

Ngo-1910, ngemva kokuvakashela "Scheherazade" ballet e Paris, Pol Puare wahlabeka umxhwele kangangokuba ngeke ngikwazi aliyeke charm kanye imfihlakalo East. Ngokokuqala ngqá e amaqoqo akhona ayengabantu onobuhle nge motifs yobuhlanga, futhi ngemva konyaka esehlela ngisho imvunulo indaba ephathwayo party "Yinkulungwane ebusuku yesibili." Couturier wabonakala ngesimo kombusi abanethonya futhi wakuthola. Ngemva omkhulu umcimbi Motifs enjalo Oriental ngezembatho isikhathi eside possessed socialites. ibhulukwe Wide futhi isiketi, ibhulukwe nemishuqulo - konke lokhu kuye kwaba i ngubo exotic ngoba obubodwa.

isitayela Russian ngemisebenzi abaklami

Ngokokuqala ngqá amathalenta Russian Poiret ihlangabezane uma uvakashela i-ballet, lapho ihlombe lonke elaseYurophu. Bakhangwa okwakhe kanye nogqozi lobuqambi bezinto, wanquma ukuhamba uhambo oluya kuyo eMpumalanga Yurophu, kuhlanganise naseMoscow futhi Petersburg. I couturiers abadumile ukuza injabulo ephelele kusukela Russian Folk imvunulo (sundresses aluhlaza, kichek, blouses, corbel, scarves kanye shawls). Waze alethwe ethile izingubo nawe inhlokodolobha fashion. Juicy, izimbali amahle Ornamental - konke lokhu Pol Puare (ingubo okuvezwe lapha esithombeni) isetshenziselwe ukudala iqoqo emhlabeni wokuqala izingubo nge motifs Russian. yena "Kazan" wabizwa ngokuthi.

Ngu elingenamikhono uPawulu Poiret sika

Injalo bomdabu ngaphansi kwalesi isici ngokwesiko Russian ongumlimi imvunulo waqonda coat ne imikhono iqonde futhi emuva, neotreznoy emgqeni okhalweni. elingenamikhono uPawulu Poiret - a eliqoshiwe, cross-exhumene okokuqala umkami uDenise isudi. Ngaye, zisebenzisa amnyama Indwangu zikanokusho, egcizelela okwakhe kanye flavour of isitayela Russian.

Immortal isidalwa umklami

ikhabethe Modern owesifazane imane engacabangeki ngaphandle nenhle futhi sexy ipensela isiketi. Phakathi naleso sikhathi, indaba indalo yayo itholakala ngokuba sibuyele emuva ekuqaleni kwekhulu lamashumi amabili. "Ukuqhuga yubkayubka" ngonyaka - lokho lapho prototype yadalwa. Pol Puare ngokuthi ngaleyondlela ngenxa yokuthi ukuthi umphetho wangemuva wengubo ewumngcingo zazikuphazamisa ukunyakaza, nabesifazane baphoqeleka ukuba yokungalungiseleli, ezihambayo izinyathelo ezincane. "Isiketi Lame" kwakheka isisekelo hhayi kuphela ngal, "umsizi", kodwa futhi ngonyaka, ngal ezidumile ezidumile "mermaid" ngoba kusihlwa futhi izingubo zomshado.

Izincwadi P. Poiret

Against ukudalelwa futhi ezinzima ekuphileni 1930 umklami sikhipha ezintathu yezincwadi zakhe: "Fashion and Finance", "Ukugqoka kwenkathi" futhi "Buyela emuva!". Bonke ngothi lwabo, eqinisweni, ukumela memoir. umsebenzi omkhulu, funda ukuthi - kuyajabulisa, lonke uchungechunge amagama abadumile, evelele on isizinda umlando okukhulu kwekhulu lamashumi amabili .. Pol Puare kwaba umuntu ongavamile bese yehlukene kaningi okubalwa, wamenywa njengendlela womfundisi eSorbonne, futhi ngezinye izikhathi amatiyetha waselaya ukudala zokubhukuda.

Ngikhohlwa omkhulu wengqephu

Nge-yalolucwaningo 20 ekhulwini elidlule leminyaka, a yemfashini ezingezwakali usuqalile nezinguquko, umthelela leli zwe, neziyaluyalu zezombusazwe, impi. Emlandweni wonke zemvelo, futhi amanye amagama esikhundleni abanye. Kwaba njalo uPawulu Poiret. ezivamile Ikakhulukazi phakathi izimbangi zayo ohlala kuso kuyakhulunywa ngaso akukho esingaphansi omkhulu Koko Shanel. UMklami ayikwazanga ukuzivumelanisa nezwe lishintsha ngokushesha okukhulu kangangokuthi, ngenxa okuyinto waxoshwa fashion Olympus. Ngemva 1925 Kwase kusele kancane lobubha waphoqeleka ukuba adayise studio yakhe, iqoqo imidwebo nezinye izinto art. Washona ngo ubumpofu kanye lokulibala ngo-1944. Futhi nje eyishumi nesigamu izethameli waphinda wakhumbula igama - Pol Puare. Imidwebo amakhophi esekhona izingubo kombhali abavezwe owayeyintombi yakhe, abe ngumkakhe. Isikhathi elilodwa ngaphezulu round, futhi, ngemva mpi esabekayo, abantu bafuna omunye dengwane, elikhanyayo, ubuhle engalawuliwe.

Ngo-2005, kusukela iqoqo lomuntu siqu nomkakhe kanye nabantwana bakhe Poiret sekudayiswe izinto ezahlukene izingubo abangaphezu kwamakhulu ayisithupha. Ezinye eziningi ubephelezelwa izithombe kusukela zomlando umndeni siqu. Ngokuyisimangaliso walondoloza izinto (ngaso sonke isikhathi zisesimweni esihle) waya iminyuziyamu nabadumile ezweni fashion.

Pol Puare - King of Fashion kwekhulu lamashumi amabili, owanikela abesifazane inkululeko e izinzwa engokoqobo nengokomfanekiso. Wenza izinguquko kwekilasi ladies ', okokuqala ezihlongozwayo ukulahla corsets, eluka eside, futhi zama ibhulukwe. Bright Star master abanamakhono, ngeshwa, bakhanya kafushane, kodwa igama lakhe kuze kube phakade olotshwe umlando.